At a 1,100 meters above sea level, a slab of rock juts horizontally into the void for about ten meters, suspended above the blue-gray waters of Lake Ringedalsvatnet that flow 700 meters below. This is Trolltunga, the Troll's Tongue, and the path that leads you there is one of the most challenging and spectacular hikes in all of Scandinavia. The starting point is located in Skjeggedal, in the municipality of Ullensvang, in the Vestland region of western Norway.
The trail measures 22 kilometers round trip, with a positive elevation gain of about 800 meters. The rock formation was created during the last ice age, about 10,000 years ago, when glaciers shaped the landscape of the Hardangervidda plateau by eroding the rock and leaving this tongue of quartzite protruding. For decades, the place remained almost unknown; its popularity exploded after 2010, when photographs taken on the edge of the rock began to spread on social media, turning Trolltunga into one of the most photographed views in all of Norway.
The trail: what you encounter along the 22 kilometers
The departure takes place from the Skjeggedal parking lot, reachable by car or with the seasonal shuttle from Tyssedal. The first kilometers of the route immediately tackle the steepest section: a sustained climb through dense vegetation of birches and firs that soon gives way to an open and barren landscape. After surpassing the altitude of 900 meters, the forest disappears and the terrain becomes an alternating mix of smooth rocks, small glacial lakes, and stretches of low grass typical of the Scandinavian plateau.
Along the way, several streams are crossed, some are fordable, while others are crossed by rudimentary wooden bridges. The trail is marked with red paint on the rocks, but in case of fog or late snow — which is common even in June — it can become difficult to follow. About halfway through the route, you encounter the lake Litledalsvatnet, a natural resting point where many hikers stop to catch their breath. The last kilometers before Trolltunga already offer glimpses of Lake Ringedalsvatnet, which appears in its full length of about 9 kilometers wedged between the mountains.
The rock and the view: what you see upon reaching the top
The arrival at Trolltunga is gradual: the rock appears almost suddenly after a bend in the path, and the line of hikers waiting to take the iconic photograph is often the first thing that stands out. The edge of the slab is devoid of any protection or railing, and the drop towards the lake is real and immediate. The panorama that opens up from the surrounding plateau embraces the entire Odda valley, the snow-capped peaks of Hardangervidda, and the dark waters of Ringedalsvatnet.
The rock itself is smooth and slightly sloped downwards, which makes the walk to the tip more psychologically challenging than it appears in photographs. In summer, the sun sets late — after 10:00 PM — and the slanting light of the evening hours transforms the landscape into something difficult to describe in words. Those arriving in the late afternoon find fewer crowds and a superior quality of light.
Practical tips for tackling the hike
The average time to complete the route is 8-12 hours, depending on the pace and breaks. It is advisable to start by 7:00 in the morning to avoid the crowds on the rock during the central hours of the day and to have a safety margin in case of unforeseen events. The trail is officially open from mid-June to September: outside this period, weather conditions and the presence of snow make the hike dangerous without climbing equipment.
Bringing at least 2-3 liters of water per person is essential, along with layered clothing, a waterproof jacket, and hiking shoes with a stiff sole. Parking in Skjeggedal is paid and fills up quickly during the high season; the shuttle from Tyssedal is a valid alternative and runs several times a day. There are no huts or refreshment points along the route, so everything needed must be carried in the backpack. Some hikers choose to camp on the plateau to break the hike into two days: this is allowed under the Norwegian law on free access to nature, allemannsretten.
How to reach the starting point from Odda and Tyssedal
The logistical reference town is Odda, accessible by car via the national road Rv13 along the Sørfjorden fjord. From Odda, Tyssedal is about 5 kilometers away, and seasonal shuttles to Skjeggedal depart from there. By car, the road that climbs to Skjeggedal is narrow and winding, with some sections alternating traffic controlled by traffic lights. Those arriving by train can get off at Voss and continue by bus to Odda through the Hardanger valley.
Ullensvang is the municipality that administers this area after the merger in 2020 between several municipalities of Hardanger. The area around Odda also offers other trails and attractions, including the Låtefossen waterfalls and the industrial museum related to the history of local electrochemistry, but Trolltunga remains the main destination that attracts tens of thousands of hikers from around the world to this wind-swept plateau every year.
